Retirement on the Outer Banks??

DEVIL HILLS, N.C.—Paul Foltz is spending a few hours on the beach here, tossing a football and building sand castles with two of his 10 grandchildren.

This is his dream retirement, says Foltz, who settled here two years ago with wife Beverly after a career spent working in Maryland. "We’re not considered residents by the locals, though,” he says. "We’re out-of-towners.”

Which is hardly surprising for a rural, even remote, area that boasts a full-time population of 35,000 but might have 10 times that number on the ground on a summer holiday weekend.

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